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COMPASS
MAGAZINE, April 2006.
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Traveling
back in time: Exploring 'Old Taiwan' in Taichung
---By Uvia Chang, Maggie Chang, Niang Chen,
Zhou Nai-Xian, Josie Huang, MuRong Pan Translated
by Cara Steenstra
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As the
cliche goes, time is like a river, quiet but steady.
The arrival of yet another spring makes this perhaps
an ideal time to not only look forward, but also
take a nostalgic glance backwards to reminisce
over childhood memories from "old Taiwan".
Retro styles have become quite a fad in Taiwan
in recent years. For those looking to explore
this trend a little further and delve into the
past, this month's cover story introduces a number
of establishments and locations that have all
stood the test of time, and are guaranteed to
stir up certain emotions and memories among many
local residents, as well as provide fascinating
glimpses into the past for others.
Men's
Barber Shop
51, YongChun South Road, Nantun District
Hours: 9 am-9 pm
Located in Taichung city's Nantun district is
an authentic Taiwanese-style men's barbershop.
In business since 1972, this 33-year-old establishment
has retained its retro-looking wooden folding
door, with two antique-grade barber chairs and
a mirror that is really as old as it looks.
On the other side is a traditional porcelain
head-washing basin. This place simply emanates
nostalgia everywhere you look. While it may
not get the business that more modern, stylishly-decorated
hair salons do, the 70-year-old barber's hair-cutting
technique is still well-loved by many customers.
A cut and wash plus a shave will only set you
back NT$270.
Looking
back on memories
A last glimpse at remaining military dependants'
villages:
Situated behind Ling Tung University is a large
plot of land with the remains of what used to
be a military dependents' village. In 1949,
KMT soldiers fled to Taiwan with the Republic
of China government, and took up residence in
military dependents' villages around Taiwan
under the government's arrangement. These villages
became a special cultural and environmental
phenomena in Taiwan, bringing long-lasting influences
to the island. Today, with few elderly military
retirees remaining, these communities have been
demolished one by one. Many local residents
no doubt feel a sense of sadness as this significant
piece of the past rapidly disappears into history
books. Taking a last glimpse of these village
ruins is perhaps a good way to understand their
historical importance.
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Old-style
facial treatments at Traditional Market No.
3
Tel: Contact Phone Number: 0921 337 662 Mrs.
Zhuang
Hours: 9 am-6 pm
Taiwan's older generation often talks about
the facial treatments that they received when
they were young. With just a piece of white
thread, a block of white powder--used in the
old days for makeup--and the hands of a trained
expert, one could easily have their faces nicely
exfoliated to reveal fine radiant skin. This
traditional beauty technique is rarely seen
nowadays and, with few young people interested,
the skill is quickly dying out. It is therefore
a pleasant surprise to discover a 70-year-old
lady at Taichung's Traditional Market No. 3
still offering this service. She has been giving
facial treatments to people since her youth
and has been in the business for almost 50 years.
You will not find any black spots on her face,
and her fine pores are good proof of the effectiveness
of her trade. Using these simple techniques,
you, too, can have glowing skin. Each facial
treatment takes approximately 20 minutes and
costs only NT$200.
Yong
Shin Shoes
7, SanMin Road, Sec. 2; (04) 2221-0048
Hours: 9 am-10 pm
Do you have a pair of shoes that you cannot
seem to part with, despite the fact that they
are getting old and falling apart? Help is at
hand; take them to this shop and get them fixed
up.
Master Jiang Bo-hui started his training as
a cobbler when he was 15, and became accomplished
at his trade by the age of 18. That was almost
50 years ago. His toolbox, converted from an
old chair, contains sharp knives, pliers, super
glue and much more. Mr. Jiang places a shoe
on his near-antique anvil, then moves swiftly
and accurately over it with a sharp knife to
attach a nice, new sole. His movements remind
some customers of kung fu. Even high heels that
have been snapped at the heel are quickly restored
to their former glamorous selves. "If you
should find the shop closed for business, then
I'm probably off on holiday having fun,"
says the 70-year-old gent as he flashes a smile
with a mouthful of gold teeth.
Da
Shan Straw Mats Factory
150, MinQuan Road (opposite Taichung Hospital)
Tel: (04) 2222-4585, 0939 721 699
Hours: 9 am-5 pm (closed Sundays)
Situated right between a modern hospital equipment
store and a cafe, Da Shan Straw Mats Factory's
sign looks more like something from a film set
of an ancient street. There, old Mr. Xu sits
on a bamboo chair at the door and stares aimlessly
at the traffic. He has been making tatami mats
for almost 50 years, starting with the rougher
earlier materials to the much finer, smoother
mats that are made today. Even with better materials
and better techniques, it is still difficult
to compete with the new mattress designs available
these days. If you ask Mr. Xu--who is a little
bit hard of hearing--when the tatami business
was at its peak, he will reply in a slow but
sure voice that it was during the Japanese colonial
era. Such recollections leaves many customers
quite speechless. |
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Taichung
city's Herb Street
Representative Shops:
Han Qiang Herb Shop
1-1, Lane 90, ChengGong Road; (04) 2222-4244
Ah Lan Herb Tea
12, Lane 90, ChengGong Road; (04) 2225-2910
Bai Cao Shop
1, Lane 90, ChengGong Road; (04) 2223-9746
Ji An Herb Shop
29, Lane 195, LuQuan West Street; (04) 2225-5595
Ah Xian Herb
Company 47, GuangFu Road; (04) 2225-5486
Hours: 8 am-10 pm
In the old days before there were soft drinks,
refreshing herbal tea drinks, special "liver-preserving"
teas, winter melon teas and other drinks were
the usual beverages of choice of local residents.
Where does one go to find these drinks nowadays?
Along ChengGong Road's Lane 90, next to First
Square, is Taichung city's Herb Street, which
has preserved these traditions. These 20 to
30 year-old shops are filled with paper cartons
inscribed with bizarre names and containing
dried herbs. Hundreds of live plants fill entrances.
Having been in this business for so long, shop
owners have each cultivated personal theories
about maintaining good health as well as life
philosophies. Thanks to their persistence, these
businesses have lasted till now, allowing many
customers with special needs to find what they
are looking for amongst the herbs and plants.
San
Yang Straw Mats Company
48, JiangGong Road, Da Jia Township, Taichung
County
Tel: (04) 2687-2558
Hours: 8 am-10 pm
Da Jia (Tachia) straw mats can cost up to several
thousand dollars each because the grass grown
in the Dali and Yuanli districts is soft and
does not break easily. The mats woven from this
material are also absorbent and have a special
fragrance. The careful, delicate weaving skills
of local women help make these mats very tough
and durable, so that they can be folded and
are cool to sleep on during hot summer nights.
Taiwanese officials who traveled to Beijing
during the Qing dynasty would always bring these
mats with them, making them a very precious
item in Beijing.
So where can Da Jia mats be found these days?
Most people in Da Jia will point you to San
Yang Straw Mats Company, across from the Da
Jia Railway Station. This 50-year-old shop has
many kinds of straw products available. Apart
from mats, they also sell straw hats, seat covers,
pillows, slippers and much more. Local residents
proudly note that Madame Chiang Kai-shek used
to wear a Da Jia straw hat when she took walks
in the hot summer sun.
Ah-Shun
Traditional Grocery Store
321-2, WenXin South 5th Road, Taichung City
(opposite FengLe Sculpture Park, Hu Shui An
[Lakeside] Art Street)
Tel: (04) 2471-7029
Hours: 12-10 pm Mon.-Fri. (occasionally closed
on Mondays), opens 9 am weekends/holidays
Along the Hu Shui An Art (Lakeside) shopping
street are popular restaurants, fashion boutiques
and arts and crafts vendors. There is also this
old-fashioned traditional grocery store, owned
by Mr. Huang Jin-Shun and in business for six
years. The old wooden door, red tiles, brick
walls and red lanterns all help give this place
an authentic vintage look. For sale are many
replica toys and snacks familiar to those born
in the '40s and '50s. There are traditional
kids' lottery games, bamboo dragonflies, wooden
spinning tops, Taiwanese puppets, cigarette
candies and other traditional sweets as well
as traditional snacks. Mr. Huang has also collected
some old porcelain bowls and iron lunch boxes
that are available for sale or used to hold
snacks for customers. Among the most interesting
items are the antique soft-drink crates by the
doorway, containing never-opened, 20-year-old
fossil-like Warinta sodas. |
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Cheng
Gong Steaming Basket Shop
273, ZhongShan Road; (04) 2224-3807
Hours: 8 am-9:30 pm (closed Sunday afternoons)
Metal cooking utensils can easily be found at
department stores and hypermarkets anywhere.
However, bamboo steaming baskets used for Hong
Kong-style dim sum snacks and wooden rice buckets
used by rice ball makers at their stalls cannot
be easily replaced with metal products. Many
Chinese bun and steamed cake makers, from restaurant
owners to housewives, have a special affinity
for these traditional baskets. Walk into the
50-year-old Cheng Gong Steaming Basket Shop
and you will find all kinds of steaming baskets
in various sizes and wooden buckets piled higher
than a person. Eighty-year-old master Mr. Zhao
Wan-Lai and his wife are still hard at work
there, taking orders from customers. Although
much cheaper products from China are already
invading the Taiwanese market, this shop still
uses traditional techniques to make their long-lasting
products.
Chang
Xing Rice Bran
431, ZhongShan Road, Sec. 2, WuRi Township,
Taichung County ; (04) 2337-8470
Hours: 8 am-10 pm (closed Saturdays)
In Taiwan's early days, baby milk powder was
very expensive and not everyone could afford
it. So, many people substituted with rice bran
powder, making this a common baby food. Situated
in WuRi Township, Chang Xing Rice Bran has been
in business for 30 years. From the very start,
they have utilized electric appliances to fry
their rice. This pre-fried rice then evolved
into one of the earliest snacks, Mi Xiang Li
(popped rice). Once the pre-fried rice is cooled,
it is made into popped rice or ground into rice
bran. Traditionally, the most popular item was
the ground rice bran but, as healthy eating
trends began to gain popularity, many other
grains and beans were introduced as well. There
is the 20-Grain Powder with high nutritional
content, the Shi Shen Rice Bran, Yi Ren and
Sesame Powder, 10-Grain Powder and much more.
You can also have your own grain powder custom-made
to your taste, with prices just as reasonable.
The Popped Rice Snack is made from pre-fried
rice mixed with malt sugar until it solidifies.
This is cut into slices for a snack that appeals
to both young and old.
Taiwan
Banana New Paradise Culture and Lifestyle Museum
111, ShuangXi Road, Sec. 2 (diagonally opposite
from Yu Ren Elementary School and the Confucius
Temple)
Tel: (04) 2234-5402
Hours: 11 am- 2 am
If you want to learn about and experience some
of Taiwan's earlier history, a visit to Taiwan
Banana New Paradise is a must. This large nostalgia-themed
teahouse restaurant has convincingly recreated
a typical Taiwan street scene from 30 to 40
years ago. Post boxes, power poles, paper kites,
a barber shop, a movie theatre, old signs and
a lot of other interesting details bring history
to life, taking visitors back in time to old
Taiwan.

Taichung
Folklore Park
(04) 2245-1310
73, LuShun Road, sec. 2, Beitun District, Taichung
City
Hours:8:30 am-9:30 pm (????/closed Mondays)
Full ticket: NT$50, Half-price ticket: NT$20
Free admission for those over the age of 65.
The Taichung Folklore Park, now almost 20 years
old, is famous for its vintage, traditional
architectural displays. Soochow (Suzhou) style
gardens and early Southern Fujianese-style traditional
architecture sits quietly in the middle of the
hustle and bustle of the city. A condensed version
of a late-19th/early-20th century Southern Fujianese
well-to-do household is on display in a "siheyuan"
compound. This includes the main hall for ancestral
worship, the master's living rooms on either
side and, on the eastern and western wings,
the study and bedrooms for the sons and their
wives. There is also a kitchen with farming
utensils on display. An "encircling arcade",
"offspring lane" and "guoshui"
arcade also surrounds these rooms and halls.
The basement underneath the "siheyuan"
home houses the Folklore Artifacts Museum. Artifacts
and wax figures display some innovative household
contraptions invented in the past. Displays
here include simple clothing, the use of red
during special festivities, rice as staple food,
the use of air-powered farming equipment, ox
carts, sedan chairs, rickshaws, and other folk
arts. A recreated Chinese herbal medicine shop,
ironsmith and other traditional venues are on
display with wax figurines to show several important
businesses from the old days.
Connected to the Folk Art Plaza is the Folk
Art Center, with inside shops selling traditional
toys and other wares. On the second floor is
the "Dream of the Red Chamber" teahouse,
where you can rest and enjoy some snacks. There
is also an art classroom named "Egg Meets
Stone" at the park entrance. Here visitors
can learn how to make pictures with eggshells,
stones and sand (classes every Wednesday afternoon).
All this and more allows modern-day residents
to pause and take a step back into history at
the Taichung Folklore Park.
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