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COMPASS
MAGAZINE, September 2006.
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Qingjing
Farm:
Taiwan's Little Europe in the clouds
---By Niang Chen Translated by
Sho Huang
A drive along the Puli to Wufeng section of
the Highway 14 Jia (?) Spur will bring you to
a mountainous dreamland, Qingjing Farm. To many
visitors, it's like discovering Shangri-La,
with green meadows that extend into the clouds,
mist and fog. As the seasons change, visitors
get to see blossoming spring flowers, summer
greenery, colorful maple leaves in fall, and
snow in the winter. The local scenery also can
change from one second to the next with sunsets
and sunrises and mists trapped in the valley.
Qingjing was once known as "Jiangjing".
Compared to the humid and crowded cities on
the plains, it is a retreat with fresh, cooler
air. Just as good, perhaps because of its good
location, the area doesn't seem to be affected
much during typhoon season, even as other mountain
roads in Nantou county might be blocked by storms
and rain. Local visitors also seem to take particular
enjoyment from watching Qingjing's flocks of
sheep, seen grazing on the wavy, green-carpeted
meadows. During weekdays, Qingjing can be a
quiet yet friendly place. On holidays, by contrast,
busloads of tourists can pour in. Shops to the
side of the meadows sell all sorts of mountain
vegetables and fruit. Pickled vegetables, bamboo
shoots and sheeps' milk products can all be
tasted, even if you don't end up purchasing
anything. Beigua North Melon, a rare vegetable
with melon-like fibers, is also called Shark
Fin Melon and has a light taste after cooking.
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Qingjing's history dates back to around 1960,
when the government relocated many retired mainland
soldiers from China's Yunnan province, Myanmar
(Burma) and North Thailand here. As a result
of media coverage, Yunnanese and Burmese dishes
here have become famous. From this unlikely
base in Taiwan's central mountains, the special
cuisine has won over many loyal diners with
exotic flavors and items like the Yunnanese
snack, Pea Powder Salad, and Mama Lu's Babao
Fish with assorted ingredients. Peanut powder,
chili and other exotic spices are added to traditional
Yunnan dishes. Through time, this combination
of a mountain climate and specially-fragrant
Yunnanese cuisine has become a Qingjing specialty.
Qingjing's comfortable climate
and gorgeous scenery, together with a convenient
location along the road network connecting to
Hehuan (Hohuanshan) Mountain, Dayu Dayuling,
the Wushe tea plantations, and Lushan hotsprings
area, have attracted many visitors from the
lowland to boost the local tourism industry.
A growing number of tourists has also resulted
in the more recent phenomenon of European-style
guesthouses and hotels. Bright, uniquely-styled
architecture blends in with the background mountains
to give the area a new nickname, Little Europe.
Every European guesthouse has its own ideal
setting and unique atmosphere. Some are built
on steep slopes that overlook a beautiful lake,
or sit in a valley for great views of the stars
at night. Camping is also a good option and
Qingjing campsite offers complete facilities.
Sleeping on a soft, yet firm, green grass bed
and breathing in the sweet scents of the mountains
guarantees a good night's rest. |
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Although you
can't escape convenience stores, cafes and herbal
teashops, these have all changed their appearances
in Qingjing to match the environment. Having
a cup of coffee in the cloud and mist filled
setting is a great way to enjoy a latte or cappuccino
while enjoying a stunning scenic vista.
Another Qingjing attraction
is its different flowers and fruit which vary
from season to season. In spring (January to
March), you'll see plum and cherry blossoms.
From June to September, sweet, fragrant and
juicy peaches can be enjoyed fresh from the
trees, or at numerous vendor stalls. The whole
place is filled with their sweet aroma. Some
guesthouses also have their own peach orchards
and allow guests to pick for free. Picking a
fresh peach and biting into it, so that the
juice explodes into your mouth, is something
that must be experienced. Then, in September,
it's the season for harvesting apples, pears
and kiwi fruit. Because of the local climate,
a certain type of sweetness reputedly forms
around the core of apples transplanted here,
so that they are crunchier and sweeter compared
to ones found elsewhere.
Numerous walkways weave through
the mountains and can take you to "Little
Switzerland". Any winding path, or just
a turn around the bend, can bring you surprising
new views of mountains, water, sky and earth.
It really doesn't matter which season it is,
as you'll find it hard to take your eyes off
the scenery here, as the winding Highway 14
takes you away from the noisy masses on the
plains and deposits you in this serene escape
in the clouds. |
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Qingjing
businesses:
Yunnan Cuisine Restaurant
196-1, RenHe Road, Datong Cun (village), Renai
Xiang (township), Nantou County (near Bu Bu
Gao Sen Trail, Taiwan Provincial Highway 14)
This place has reasonable prices and a convenient
location but it's small, so that it easily fills
up at mealtimes. The Pea Powder Salad, and Rice
Noodles are all tasty.
Ma
Ma Lu's Yunnan Bai Yi Dishes
36-2, Bo Wang Lane, Datong Cun (village), Renai
Xiang (township), Nantou County (in Bo Ai Xin
Cun). Heading toward Hehuan Mountain, pass Qingjing's
meadow and police station, and it's on the right-side
lane. (049) 280-3876
This restaurant is open almost daily unless
the weather is awful. Babao Fish, filled with
spices and deep-fried, is crispy on the outside
and fresh and sweet inside. Jin Sa--ground meat
wrapped with cabbage leaves--is enjoyed like
a shrimp cake. You can taste Ma Ma Lu's love
and effort in all the dishes here.
Yuan
Ye Culture Trip
30, Bo Wang Lane, Datong Cun, Renai Xiang, Nantou
County; (049) 280-1929, 0910-507-210
This tourist center, rebuilt after the 1999
9-21 earthquake, can arrange guided, in-depth
maple or snow walks. The place also provides
boarding and food. Local Qingjing guides, who
know the area well, lead the tours.
Routes
for Getting There:
1. North-South Freeway Rt. 3 - Caotun (Tsaotun)
exit - Taiwan Provincial Highway 14 - Puli -
Wushe - Qingjing Farm
2. Zhongshan North-South Freeway Rt. 1 - Changhua
exit - Freeway Rt. 3 - Caotun (Tsaotun) exit
- Taiwan Provincial Highway 14 - Puli - Wushe
- Qingjing Farm (from Caotun to Qingjing is
about 80 kilometers and about a 90-minute drive)
Or
1. Zhong Tou (Taichung-Nantou) Expressway -
Taiwan Provincial Highway 14 - Puli - Wushe
- Highway 14 "Jia (?)" Spur - Qingjing
Farm
2. Zhong Tou (Taichung-Changhua) Expressway
Rt. 74 - Taiwan Provincial Highway 14 - Puli
- Wushe - Highway 14 "Jia (?)" Spur
- Qingjing Farm
Public
Transportation
You can either take a train or a bus to Taichung,
and then catch a bus heading to Puli from Gancheng
Bus Station. (Quanhang Bus, Puli Bus, Nantou
Bus companies) Once at Puli, catch the bus going
to Songgang or Cuifeng. It should take you to
Qinjing Farm. (From Taichung to Qingjing is
about 90 kilometers and it takes about 2 hours
and 15 minutes.) |
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