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COMPASS
MAGAZINE, November 2006.
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"The
mayor has aimed to promote Taichung as a cultural
centre, and I think he's doing a damn good job."
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How
English-friendly is Taichung?
The Foreigner's Perspective
--By Lindsay Alderton
Translated by Picker Chen
Despite being Taiwan's third-largest
city after Taipei and Kaohsiung, Taichung has
long had one of the nation's largest international
communities. What attracts people is not only
the cheaper housing and stable climate, but
also the fact that Taichung's relatively compact
size makes it a less overwhelming choice for
new arrivals. "After all, you can't really
get too lost in Taichung, can you?" says
Kristine Schultz, 28, from Denmark. "And
even if you do, that's half the fun!" An
experienced traveller, Kristine has coped with
complex communication barriers in a number of
different countries, and relishes the challenges
which arise.
However, this is not the case
for everybody. For countless others who step
off the bus into a confusing bedlam of speed-hungry
scooters, and incomprehensible neon, it can
be more than a little daunting. Steve, 24, from
England, still keeps a piece of paper in his
wallet with his address written in Chinese,
just in case he gets so lost that he might have
to abandon his scooter and hail a cab.
"It can be scary at night
when everything looks the same, especially when
the spelling on your map differs from that of
the road sign. Or even worse, when the street
signs on the same road are spelt differently!"
he notes. |
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"I
think there's a phenomenal amount of things
to do here now, and the information is much
more easily accessible than before." |
So how English-friendly is Taichung, and what
are some of the issues which the average foreigner
encounters living as an "alien" in
an "alien culture"? We posed this
question to a number of foreigners, and received
an array of responses from people in a wide
range of backgrounds, working or living here
under a variety of different circumstances.
Cathy Wilson, 36, from Canada, and Jonathan
Kingham, 42, from England are both teachers
who have lived in Taichung for a number of years.
"When I first arrived there were no websites,
no Tealit, and Compass was an eight-page supplement,"
says Cathy.
Over the years, there has been an explosion,
not just in numbers but also in the age range
of foreigners. This has resulted in a significant
increase in the amount of magazines, websites
and foreigner-friendly restaurants, bars and
activities. "I think there's a phenomenal
amount of things to do here now," says
Jonathan. "And the information is much
more easily accessible than before."
The government, which has launched a foreigner
assistance website at http.//iff.npa.gov.tw,
is taking seriously its initiative to facilitate
Taiwan's bilingual development. The website
provides regularly-updated information for foreigners,
including visa and passport issues, health care,
housing and safety. There is also a 24-hour
toll-free help line-0800-024-111-where English-speaking
operators can assist with any problems. The
Taichung City Government's own website at http://
english.tccg.gov.tw/living.php also provides
a vast array of links aimed at making Taichung
more accessible for foreigners. Taichung City
Mayor Jason Hu has been extremely proactive
in promoting Taichung internationally, and forming
alliances with other cities in an effort to
make Taichung more multicultural.
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"The mayor has aimed to promote Taichung
as a cultural centre, and I think he's doing
a damn good job," says Jonathan. "There's
festivals, concerts and great improvements architecturally.
The new park on WenXin [Road] with the amphitheatre
is stunning, and when the high-speed railway
opens it will offer Taichung a great opportunity
to expand culturally."
However, adequate promotion of events-in both
Chinese and English-is essential if the foreign
community is to be included in Taichung's development
as an international city. "Although it's
nearly always possible for me to pick up an
art publication at Caves Bookstore, the information
is generally only in Chinese. This could be
easily rectified, as in Taipei, with the use
of fly-posters and pamphlets in both Chinese
as well as English," says Cathy.
Dan Musser, 28, from America and Nick Ferrare,
35, from South Africa are both keen explorers
who enjoy getting out of the city and into the
surrounding hills and countryside. "You
can get good, clear advice, in English, on how
to organise trekking or rafting trips at some
of the outdoor stores," says Dan, who recently
completed a round-the-island trip and was surprised
by the high level of English facilities he encountered.
"Buying a train ticket was easy, as there
were English signs wherever we went, and within
stations there's usually at least one person
who can advise in English, too."
Nick, a keen athlete who competes
regularly in sporting events around the country,
feels the same. "Most of my friends are
Taiwanese professionals so they speak a high
level of English," he says. "But even
at the local swimming pool, there are still
people with a basic grasp [of English] who are
eager to communicate."
Certainly, with the growth of
English as the dominant global language, many
people in Taiwan are working hard to improve
their language skills. Andrea, 33, an Italian
businessman who's lived in Taichung for the
last three years, has witnessed significant
improvements at work. "In the business
market, there cannot be gaps in communication,
as this could cause mistakes, which could cost
a lot of money. As a result, more and more companies
are putting money into educating their staff
in English," he says.
With regards to making Taichung
a more foreigner-friendly city, there is of
course one point on which the vast majority
of foreigners seem to agree. "The government
needs to make a decision, once and for all,
about Pinyin [romanisation], and then uniform
the street signs accordingly," says Jonathan.
"This would improve the average visitor's
perception dramatically."
"I'm here visiting my daughter,"
says Shelby Wall, 54, from Canada. "For
the first few days, yes, it was very confusing
trying to get around. However, once I finally
located it, the people at the Taichung Visitor
Centre were extremely helpful and gave me this
great little book."
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Available at
both the visitor centre and Eslite bookstores,
the "Taichung Cuisine Guide" is a
new and densely packed manual, published by
the city government, which is filled with a
wealth of information for both tourists and
residents. Included are clearly-marked transport
maps and detailed tourist itineraries, as well
as information on hotels, home-stays, nature
and leisure trails, historic sites, teahouses
and department stores. Most importantly, the
information is accurately presented and translated.
Also available in the "Taichung
Cuisine Guide" is a section listing over
200 restaurants, including descriptions of food,
contact details, opening hours and even a price
range. This is especially useful as in recent
years there has been an explosion in the number
of authentic Western food restaurants and coffee
shops opening in Taichung, and finding an English
menu is no longer as complicated as it used
to be.
"Good English is something
that, as restaurant owners, we insist upon in
our staff," say the proprietors of Uzo
restaurant, Ken Mann and Ramin Fouladpour. "It
is vital that our staff can provide not just
a friendly service, but also practical, well-informed
suggestions, too." With regards to eating
at local Taiwanese restaurants which may not
provide English menus or English-speaking staff,
there is of course a higher element of risk
involved. However, this in itself can be fun.
"I love Chinese food,"
says Sandra Tuchlenski, a young German mother
who came to Taichung with her husband, who works
here as an engineer. "If the restaurant
doesn't have an English menu, then we just walk
around the other tables and see what people
are eating. Sometimes we're even been allowed
into the kitchen!"
If Taichung is to become a truly
international city and, on a larger scale, if
Taiwan is to stand a chance against other tourist
destinations in Asia, then the government must
continue to follow through on its initiatives.
For sure there is still a great deal of room
for improvement, but what is important is that
steps are being taken, slowly but surely. In
return, foreigners must adapt and not lose track
of where it is that they are.
As Cathy notes, "As soon
as you stop comparing everything with how it
is back home, it not only becomes a lot easier,
but it's also a lot more fun."
"...Stop
comparing everything with how it is back home,
it not only becomes a lot easier, but it's also
a lot more fun."
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