A wonderful, one-day exploration of Qingshui

By Niang Chen　Translated by Naomi Lai

Originally, Taichung county's Qingshui (Chingshui) was known as "Niu Ma Tou", which is a transliteration of the word for "chieftain" in the Pingpu aboriginal language. Beneath Aofeng Mountain on its east side is a constantly-flowing clear spring and in 1920 the town was renamed Qingshui Township, as "qing shui" means "clear spring" in Chinese. Within a 30-40 minute drive from Taichung city, it is known for its many scenic and cultural destinations, such as the Gaomei Wetlands and Taichung County Seaport Art Center, and for its many delightful local snacks, like Qingshui Rice Tube Pudding. All this makes for pleasant day trip to Qingshui, where you can enjoy the following attractions and delicacies.

In the morning, you can start at a traditional market, savoring local snacks like "mitaimu" (thick rice noodles), tofu soup, and red bean rice dumplings. After satisfying your stomach, visit the goddess Guanyin at the Zihyunyan Temple, explore the ghost caves at Aofeng Park, barbecue in a special BBQ area, or take a ride along a bicycle trail. In the afternoon, continue by enjoying some delightful handmade noodles, rice tube pudding or goose slices in Qingshui town. Finally, at dusk, enjoy the sunset or night views from the Qingshui Service Area highway rest stop. As you leave, don't forget to take some local delicacies home for your friends and family.

Zihyunyan Temple
206, DaJie Rd, Qingshui Township, near intersection of GuangMing Rd and ZhongXing St

This nationally-famous tourist temple was built during the Kangxi and Qianlong eras of the Qing dynasty. It was later remodeled in 1970, with the original single-floor hall expanded into a five-story, elaborately-decorated building with detailed carvings part of the interior design. This temple mainly worships the goddess Guanyin, so it is often referred to as the Guanyin Ting (pavilion) by locals and is a major center for religious activities in this region.

Qingshui Shizhen Park on Provincial Highway No. 10 (Zhongqing section)

This park is situated on an Aofeng Mountain hillside and was created out of a merger of Qingshui, Aofeng and Shilaitou parks. Its total area is 60 hectares and it includes the Niu-Ma-Tou Cultural Site, Taichung County Aofeng Mountain Bicycling Arena, a barbecue area and the Qingshui Ghost Caves. Locals believe that the Qingshui Ghost Caves were built as a military network by the Japanese during the colonial period. The cave walls are made of stone and so narrow that only one person can pass through at a time. In wider places, areas for tatami mats, storage rooms, kitchens and water storage were installed. Despite the installation of lighting by the township in recent years, it can be too dark to see your own hands in places, meaning that you shouldn't enter without flashlights and the company of others. Many sub-passages extend off of the main passage and there are three A, B and C exits, with most visitors entering via A or B. Besides the ghost cave, the park also features a well-equipped barbecue area and cycling paths with plenty of open, green spaces, making it attractive for an afternoon of peace and relaxation over a book or cup of tea. If you are the more active type, you can toss a ball here with your friends, or enjoy a picnic in a romantic setting. Across from Shizhen Park is Qingyunyan, a great place for marvelous night views.

Qingshui Service Area

At the 171-kilometer marker on the National Freeway No. 3, you'll find the Qingshui Service Area. This ocean-themed area stands out among other highway rest stops with its fluid architectural designs. Inside the area are various shops offering a range of food, clothing and other articles. There is also a large aquarium and an art area with stone ornaments. Foot paths and stairways are designed to divide up the area so that even at its most crowded, it doesn't feel overrun. Outside of the service area building you will find a somewhat surreal scene, consisting of a large grass field, grand fountain and blinking neon beacons. All these features make the Qingshui Service Area a popular tourist destination for admiring beautiful sunrises and sunsets over Taichung Port, as well as a a combination of relaxation, art and scenic beauty.

No matter where Ji Goose
Restaurant has moved over
the years, its faithful patrons
have been able to find it.

Ji Goose Restaurant
◎ 491, ZhongHua Rd, Qingshui township
◎ (04) 2626-8335
◎ Hours: 4 pm-1 am

A plate of goose meat for two to three people costs around NT$240. The geese are cooked for about an hour before being ice-chilled to seal in the juices, making the meat texture both firm and tender. Goose slices are heated by running them through a hot soup and drizzling them with goose juices before serving. Blood-rice cakes, Chinese radishes and boiled leeks are also offered here, with prices ranging from NT$40 for a small serving to NT$80 for a large. The Bamboo Soup (NT$50) is a must-try offering the savory texture of bamboo. These forms of local comfort food all please with traditional country-style flavors.

The outside banyan tree is
larger than ths shop's sign, so
many locals refer to it as the
"Handmade Noodle Shop
Under the Banyan Tree".

New Flavor Handmade Noodles
◎ 916, AoFeng Rd, Qingshui township (under banyan tree)
◎ (04) 2622-9631
◎ Hours: 10 am-1:30 pm, 4-8 pm

Dry Noodles (NT$35), Egg Drop Soup (NT$10), Pickled Vegetables (NT$20): With every mouthful you can feel the fresh handmade noodles playing a tug of war in your mouth. Before taking your first bite, however, you should mix them with the sauce (sesame sauce, meat sauce and minced garlic) and a small spoonful of rice vinegar for the most delicious combination. The aromatic egg drop soup is simply seasoned with chopped celery, sprinkled onto a half-cooked egg soaked in bonito stock. The picked vegetables are pickled in a sauce made from spicy bean paste, pepper, Chinese rock sugar, minced garlic and sesame oil.

Noodles are made with unleavened all-purpose flour dough and cooked fresh every day.

Home of Braised Pork Rice
◎ 400-3, ZhongShan Rd, Qingshui township (opposite gas station)
◎ (04) 2623-3855
◎ Hours︰6:30 am-2 pm (closed second, fourth Sundays each month)

Braised Pork Rice (NT$20) features a meat sauce made with mostly lean meat mixed with soy sauce and Chinese herbs for a fresh-tasting flavor. Other favorites include the Pork Chop Rice (NT$65, with miso soup) and Pig Head Slices (NT$20), made with a pig's head stewed in a sauce made with soy sauce and Chinese rock sugar before being chilled and cut into thin slices. Sesame oil is drizzled onto the slices before serving, allowing the oil's heavy fragrance to mingle with the crunchy texture of the pig's head for a delightful snack.

Tofu (NT$15 per piece): The enriching aroma of beans fills every bite of this daily home-made tofu. Soaked in hot broth, it is delicious even without any seasonings.

Qing Shui Fu Mitaimu
◎ 9, ZhenBei St, Qingshui township
◎ (04) 2623-6481
◎ Hours: 6 am-1 pm

Pyramid Dumplings (NT$35): The "mitaimu" (thick rice noodles), flat noodles and pyramid dumplings are made with a mixture of indica rice flour and sweet potato flour, and are specialties of "Qing Shui Fu" ('fu' meaning 'good luck' in Chinese). All items are freshly made and sold until they run out. The Mitaimu (NT$30) can be enjoyed either hot or cold.

Authentic Rice Tube Pudding Manor
◎ 75-1, DaJie Rd, Qingshui township
◎ (04) 2622-0567
◎ Hours: 7 am-8 pm

Besides the already-famous Wang Ta Rice Tube Pudding and A-Cai Rice Tube Pudding shops, there's another rice tube pudding establishment that should not be missed. The Authentic Rice Tube Pudding Manor near the Zhiyunyan Temple is known for its fresh flavors and clean dining environment which draws both locals and tourists.

The three specialties here are Rice Tube Pudding (NT$30), Pig Feet Noodles (NT$75) and Taro Rice Dumplings (NT$30). The sticky rice tube pudding exudes the faint fragrance of its wooden container and is topped with a sauce made from pork mixed with fried onion bits for a satisfying meal. The homemade noodles served with the the pig feet compliment the tender, tasty stewed feet in texture and flavor. The Hakka-style rice dumplings are a great dessert and come in both red bean and taro flavors. All of these specialties may also be taken out as gift packages for friends and relatives.