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MAGAZINE, May 2002
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Feng
Zhuan Shark's Fin Restaurant
81, HuiJung (HuiChung) Rd., section 3
Tel: (04) 2258-9168
Hours: 11:30 am-2 pm; 5:30-9 pm |
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Dining
with Taichung's shark fin specialists at Feng Zhuan
By Chen Ni-ang Translated by Matt
Godsey and Annie Chen
Feng
Zhuan Shark's Fin Restaurant is housed in a distinctive building that
is especially eye-catching at night, when it casts an attractive glow
onto the street.
The first thing one notices upon stepping into the
dining room is a sense of space. The atmosphere is refined and relaxed,
with classical music playing in the background. The gentle lighting,
provided by Dutch-style lamps that hang from the ceiling, has a
soothing effect. And, unlike many restaurants, Feng Zhuan does not
try to cram in as many tables as possible until every square-inch
of space has been filled. Instead, a large portion of the main dining
room is dedicated to a gently flowing waterfall.
Shark fin is a delicacy, prized by gourmets for
both its flavor and its nutritious value. In fact, three years ago
former President Lee Teng-hui himself enjoyed Feng Zhuan's shark
fin. However, the prices at this restaurant are quite reasonable;
you don't need to be a president to dine here.
Since there are very few restaurants in Taiwan that
serve shark fin as their main course, many customers at Feng Zhuan
are curious about the different ways it can be served. Therefore,
set meals are offered for customers' convenience, making it easy
to order, even for those who have never tried shark-fin before.
The lunch set meal (NT$680) includes salad, appetizer, shrimp ball,
shark-fin steak, Thai-style chicken rice and a choice of fruit or
ice cream.
The
chefs at Feng Zhuan draw their ideas from different types of
cuisine, which are used to develop interesting new flavors.
The main course is always shark fin, of course, but the side
dishes change from time to time. For example, the current side
dish is Thai chicken rice--fresh, tender chicken, cooked with
a delicate sweet and sour flavor. Customer response to this
dish has been overwhelmingly positive. |
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Since shark fin itself has a very subtle flavor,
preparing it properly is not easy. Feng Zhuan chefs cook the fins
in a broth with a ham and chicken base until they have absorbed
the essence of the soup. They then add a French-style sauce. This
complicated and time-consuming method of preparation is the only
way to draw out the inherent flavor of the shark fin.
Despite the high level of preparation required,
the dinner set meal costs only NT$980. Although the side dishes
are similar to those served with the lunch set, the shark-fin steak
served with the dinner set meal comes from the middle section of
the fin, the highest quality part. Feng Zhuan also offers larger
high-quality steaks (NT$1,500 and NT$1,800) for the true shark-fin
aficionado. For banquets, Feng Zhuan is worth considering, with
a main course of shark-fin (naturally) and a per-table cost of only
NT$7,000.
One of Feng Zhuan's owners is also the architect
who designed the restaurant. When planned the layout of the building
from the customer's point of view, trying to envision the kind of
restaurant that would make them feel most at home. In addition to
the large main dining room, there are also six private dining rooms
with total seating for 120 people. Thought was also given to the
amount of parking required by so many customers; the 800 ping parking
lot is sure to have spaces available, even on the busiest of nights.
Whether you want to treat some friends or have a
family get-together, Feng Zhuan has the food and the atmosphere
to satisfy, with prices that are quite reasonable, especially when
one considers the high-quality ingredients and the amount of time
and care devoted to preparation.
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