YUAN SHAO BARBECUE RESTAURANT (04) 2328-1722 393, TaiZhongGang (Taichung Kang) Road, section 1 Hours: 11:30 am-2 pm, 5:30 pm-12 am ( last order 10:30 pm) Credit cards accepted; parking lot

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--By Douglas Habecker, translated by Crystal Kuo

Yuan Shao Barbecue is yet another ambitious restaurant venture by the ever-expanding Wang Steak Group. This attractive, two-floor, 140-seat restaurant--conveniently located on the corner of TaiZhongGang and ZhongMing South roads--is the first Taichung Yuan Shao branch and follows two Taipei outlets. The establishment focuses on offering modern Japanese-style do-in-yourself barbecue in a classy-looking environment that includes lots of green highlights, warm lighting, natural wood and other modern decor. Tables seat two to 10 (sections can be cordoned off for larger parties) and come with a rectacular grill that holds a tray of red-hot coals which, at a minimum of 260 degrees Celsius, are hot enough to keep you from leaning over the table. Most diners opt for the NT$580/person (plus 10% service charge) set meals, which offer a choice from each of six categories--meat course (beef or pork), salad, soup, "roaster pot" (duck or squid), cold drink, and dessert--plus a "stone pot" fried rice and vegetables, and coffee or tea. The thin-sliced high-grade meat can be sprinkled with sea salt or a mix of five spices, or dipped in two sauces. Helpful staff can help beginners get started with their barbecuing. There is also an a la carte menu that includes a wide range of beef, pork, chicken, lamb chop, vegetable and seafood plates, starting from NT$120, plus beer (NT$150 for a Tiger 500cc draft), smoothies, plum wine, and sake. Restaurant parking is a 20 meters away, next to the old Sogo II building.