|Polygram Group Cantonese Dim Sum
By Niang Chen
Translated by Anna Yang
345, ChongDe Rd, Sec 2, Beitun Dist
Hours: 11:30 am-2:30 pm, 5:30-9 pm
Opening almost a year ago to great fanfare, this restaurant has remained consistently crowded, thanks to its exquisite dim sum delicacies as well as stir-fried and banquet dining, with private dining rooms also available.
Head Chef Chi Yi-ming selects and cooks fresh ingredients from local farms all over Taiwan. On one hot summer day, we tried the Roast Pork with Baked Seafood, made with bamboo shoots from Dakeng, and Seafood Grilled with Butter (NT$180), all exuding mouthwatering aromas. There was also Sweet and Sour Flavor Pork (NT$300) seasoned with natural cactus jam from Penghu, and Apple with Grouper Soup (NT$520), featuring apples, makao (pepper), handmade preserved vegetable and grouper. We found that putting the pork belly slices in the soup made it even more flavorful, to the point where we were enjoying bowl after bowl. The best of many notable side dishes included Dajia betel nut taro, tender tofu slices, and garlic string beans.
Chef Chi's well-known motto is "Savoring ingredients from the right season and place is a healthy thing to do". A varied way to savor such things is Roast Meat Platter with Three Kinds (NT$500), with the "three kinds" being roast pork, chicken and duck, accompanied on the side by wine jelly and a dipping sauce made of apples and guavas--resulting in rich, flavorful layers that all start on local Taiwanese farms.
The chef also aims for pleasing interactions with his diners by using such ingredients to present delightful dim sum selections that promise to fill stomachs and please palates.