Hong Kong Cuisine Restaurant
By Douglas Habecker
Translated by Anna Yang
510, HeNan Rd, Sec 2, Xitun Dist
Hours: 11 am-2:30 pm, 5-9:30 pm, holidays 11 am-3 pm, 5-9:30 pm (last order 30 min. before closing)
Among a recent flood of Taichung Cantonese-style restaurants, one low-profile place has been quietly filling up on a regular basis, thanks to an excellent selection of authentic, decently-priced Hong Kong cuisine. Celebrating its first anniversary in September, the 80-seat Causeway Bay is located within a 100 meters of Taiwan Boulevard and offers a pleasant, open environment and top-quality service.
Joseph Yu, well-known around Taichung for his stints as food-and-beverage (F&B) manager at Evergreen Laurel, Landis and Windsor hotels, says that he and five other hotel F&B veterans decided to put their kitchen, service, management, marketing and sourcing skills to good use and open their own place. Their Hong Kong chef insists on traditional cooking methods often eschewed by other local chefs. For example, the popular Wingei Crispy Chicken served with Pickles and Pepper Powder (NT$380) is not simply thrown into a wok, but hung and air-dried for a day, then doused with hot oil, giving its skin a trademark thin, crispy texture. A sauce made with a careful ratio of soy sauce and pork oil is poured over the very traditional Claypot Rice with Lap Chang and Cured Meat (NT$150), including two varieties of sliced Chinese sausage on a bed of rice.
Joining a long list of sauteed, claypot, congee and rice/noodle entrees are 23 dim sum delicacies, all made with the same meticulous approach and often featuring special side sauces. Deep Fried Shrimp Rolls with Water Chestnut, Leeks and Coriander (NT$80), with thin, crispy skin encasing juicy, chewy shrimp, come with a special homemade sauce as do Deep Fried Dumplings with Squid and Shrimp (NT$90), with a mayonnaise and mustard based sauce. Pleasingly, mustard and the restaurant's special spicier-than-usual chili sauce are provided, pairing well with items like Steamed Shrimp Dumplings (NT$105), with their crystalline chewy skin.
As Joseph points out, the broad menu of entrees and dim sum is appealing for both a mildly-peckish individual or a large voracious group of diners. A good accompaniment for any size of meal here are popular Hong Kong desserts, like Chilled Mango Sago and Pomelo (NT$120), and drinks like the famed Hong Kong Style Milk Tea with Coffee (NT$75).