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TAIWAN FUN MAGAZINE,
March 2002
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Kunming
26, Lane 81, FuXing (FuHsing) N. Rd.
Tel: (02) 2751-6776
Hours: 11:30 am-2 pm (Lunch),
5:30-9:30
pm (dinner)
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VISITOR RATINGS & REVIEWS
A taste
of Kunming via Burma
By Courtney Donovan Smith Translated
by Priscilla Chen
In my business, I hear
a lot about restaurants from fans of various places
around town. Many of those recommendations eventually
make their way into print, as personal testimonials
often are a good indicator of quality.
I recently met a British
businessman whose advocacy of Kunming restaurant was
so fanatical that I was convinced he was either part-owner
or had an very intimate relationship with the owner,
or that the food was really, really good. When his opinion
was echoed by others around the table, I knew it was
the latter.
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Kunming didn't disappoint.
The meal started with samosas and "Fried Chicken"
(NT$230), which is actually small fried pieces of chicken
breast. The samosas were some of the best I've ever tasted,
perfectly crisped on the outside and moist and well-seasoned
on the inside. The "Fried Chicken", though a bit
dry, had a beautiful masala seasoning from a process that
apparently takes days.
The main course included coconut
chicken (NT$220), spicy lamb (NT$240) and cabbage curry (NT$180).
Everyone in our party of five raved about every dish we were
served and, in spite of being stuffed to the gills, ordered
second rounds of most of the dishes. I personally was particularly
fond of their spicy lamb, coconut chicken and hummous.
Owner/chef Yacoob Mah, also known as George, is not afraid
of taking risks and trying new dishes. Our table was also
impressed with his Musakka (Brinjal with beef - NT$240) which,
I was told, was Greek in origin. Also on the menu were Thai
Tom Yam soup and various Chinese favourites.
Yacoob hails from Northern
Burma and his ancestors are from Kunming. He personally has
spices shipped out from Burma on a regular basis to ensure
quality. His food is billed as Indian/Yunnan cuisine, but
other influences are evident. A high percentage of his customers
hail from Islamic countries, partly because Kunming's food
is Halal but also undoubtedly because of the quality and very
reasonable prices. The five of us ordered enough food for
10 and and didn't manage to break the NT$3000 mark.
Because Kunming is an Islamic
restaurant, alcohol is not served. If you enjoy a beer with
your curry, I suggest politely speaking to the owner and he
might let you run out to the 7-11 to pick yourself up one
and bring it in. Just be sure to ask first. The only downside
to Kunming is the decor, which is a bit on the sparse and
drab side. However, that shortcoming is a small price to pay
to experience food of this quality.
To get to Kunming get yourself
to the corner of FuXing (FuHsing) North and NanJing East roads.
Walk south (towards the gas station) on FuXing North Road
for about half a block and turn into Lane 81 on your left.
It's about 100 metres down.
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