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TAIWAN FUN MAGAZINE,
Vogue New Chinese Cuisine
Fu-Hsin North Road
by Hon-Lin Lin / translated
by Tiger Yang
It has been four years since En Vogue New Chinese Cuisine
opened up on Fu-Hsin North Road, a section famous for its
restaurants. Though I have passed by many times, I've never
mustered the nerve to walk in thinking the cost was way
over my head. After an Australian friend suggested otherwise,
I finally made a visit.
The interiors are fashionable, yet subdued - over stuffed
comfortable cushions, crisp linen tablecloths, fresh
Chinese bellflowers here and there, Lisa Uno's Bosa
Nova beat in the background and model-like waitresses
dressed in black and white - and they are divided into
three separate areas by lamps modeled after Mondrian.
The clatter of dishes and raucous din, so characteristic
of Chinese restaurants, is pleasantly absent. From within,
the parade of pedestrians passing by makes a moving
feast for the eye as you dine in style.
The service is just as refined as the atmosphere, another
feature that's all too often neglected in local establishments,
so you already feel contented before the meal even arrives.
"En Vogue" elevates Chinese cuisine, from taste
to presentation, to a new level of elegance. A surprising
balance between East and West of color, aroma, taste and
textures pervades each dish; the visual effect is stunning,
leaving you totally satisfied. The dishes are primarily
from Shanghai and Sichuan, but with many options to choose
from - and, the menu is changed every six to nine months.
The Chef recommends: Long Island Designer Scallops
& Beef (NT$350); Wuhsr Pork Rib (NT$350) which
melts in your mouth; Golden Seafood Roll (NT$240);
Hong Kong Jinsha Shrimp Balls (NT$310); and Almond
Bean Curd (NT$80). The Dripping Iced Coffee (NT$160),
an elegant finale to any meal, is delightful.
My visit to En Vogue New Chinese Cuisine proved one
thing: looks can be deceiving. This is a place which
looks too good to be true. The cost definitely is!