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FYI SOUTH Magazine, April 2007.

Tainan A-Hui Fried Eel

283, GongYuan S Rd, Tainan City
(06) 221-8882
Hours: 11 am-2:30 pm;
4:30 pm-10 pm
Credit cards not accepted.
Chinese-only menu.

There are three good reasons to come here for a meal: Eel makes an interesting change from the pork, chicken and seafood that's usually eaten in Taiwan; according to nutrition websites, eel flesh is especially good for you because of its fish-oil content; and at A-Hui they can cook very well. This new branch (the original eatery, near the YanPing Market, has been open for over a decade) offers more than 45 dishes, including soups, various kinds of noodles, and "geng" -- a broth that's somewhere between a soup and a stew. Eel items are priced between NT$70 and NT$150. If you're eating by yourself, a good start is the Eel Oil Noodles Geng (NT$70). If you're with a group, order some of the larger dishes such as Mayou Fried Eel (NT$150). If you do insist on eating creatures that have four legs, there are a number of pork dishes, including Pig's Heart Soup (NT$120) and Pig's Lung Soup (NT$60). This is a small establishment with no more than five tables, but it's comfortable and very clean. Soft drinks, but no alcoholic beverages, are available. --By Steven Crook, translated by Ann Lee