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FYI SOUTH Magazine, February 2004.


By Steven Crook

Shantou Handmade Yangchun Noodles

270, LinSen 1st Rd., ShinShing, Kaohsiung City
Hours: 4 pm-1 am

Run by the daughter of the man--a native of the coastal city of Shantou in China's Guangdong province--who founded this eatery a little over half a century ago, Shantou Yangchun Noodles is an unpretentious but popular establishment ten minutes' walk from Kaohsiung Railway Station. The tables are careworn, the walls less than spotless, but the food is reliably good--as it should be after 50 years of practice. The handmade noodles (NT$35 to NT$55) here are thinner than conventional Taiwanese noodles, that much is obvious, but other differences between Shantou Yangchun Noodles and the equivalent Taiwanese dish are perhaps too subtle for many people to notice. Fish eggs, molded into fist-sized cylinders (NT$50), and portions of octopus can be ordered. Soups, plus sidedishes of pig's ear, chickens' hearts, dofu, and hard-boiled eggs are available.

Kaohsiung First Knife-cut Noodles

257, JungShiau 1st Rd., ShinShing, Kaohsiung City
(07) 238-5591
Hours: 11-30 am-2-30 pm; 5-30 pm-8-30 pm

While it does not have an exceptionally long history, this two-year-old eatery claims to be a pioneer of sorts--the first establishment in the port city to sell a kind of food usually associated with the Muslim cuisine of mainland China's Shaanxi province. This is a place for people who like thick, fresh noodles: When an order is placed, the cook picks up a big slab of dough, and skillfully carves off centimeter-wide strips of various lengths. Served with chunks of beef, beef broth, beef tendons, or meat sauce, noodle dishes are priced NT$40 to NT$100; sidedishes of vegetables, dofu, and other items are available. Located between LiuHe 1st Road and JungJeng 3rd Road.

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