20 good reasons to visit Taichung's Canal District: Good coffee, fine Japanese dining, late-night beers and much more in the heart of Taichung

By Douglas Habecker Translated by Sho Huang and Angela Cheng
Photos by Douglas Habecker and Pedro Lucas Teixeira Pinho

It's hard to think of a more ideally-located downtown Taichung hub for dining, cafes, nightlife and shopping than the Canal District. This unofficial moniker, coined by Compass Magazine when it first began publishing a city map over a decade ago, describes the area immediately surrounding the Mayuantou River, bounded by Taichung Port Road (Taiwan Blvd.) to the north and GongYi Road to the south. Connected to the city's busiest thoroughfare and adjacent to its biggest commercial district, within easy walking range of major business, commercial and residential areas and several major hotels, it has tremendous potential.

This roughly 200-300 meter stretch of waterway, with HuaMei and HuaMei West streets on either bank, became a happening go-to spot in the 1990s but saw a significant decline in mid-to-late 2000s. Thankfully, the last year or two has seen the beginnings of a rejuvenated Canal District with an influx of new cafes, restaurants and nightspots, many catering specifically to a sizable community of Japanese residents living nearby. In recent years, the Taichung city government has also invested a significant amount of money and effort into transforming the look and feel of the district with attractive, modern pedestrian walkways and bridges and improved sidewalks.

Day or night, a stroll down this canal will take you to an eclectic variety of places, from exquisite sushi bars and German-themed dining to sidewalk cafes and late-night watering holes. The following sampling is by no means comprehensive and focuses almost exclusively on businesses facing the canal on HuaMei and HuaMei West streets. As the Compass Map indicates, there are plenty of equally interesting Canal District businesses very close by on ZhongMing, MeiCun and other roads and various intersecting streets. This little, zigzagging 20-stop tour starts on the canal's northern end and works its way toward GongYi Road....

Hui-Sun Coffee

494, HuaMei St.
(04) 2326-0862
open 9 am-8 pm

This veteran coffee retailer's coffees range from the Americano (NT$70) to the Hui-Sun (Siphon) Coffee (NT$100) and unique Hui-Sun Tea Coffee (NT$95), as well as coffee beans like the 100% Pure Taiwan Roasted Coffee (NT$750/bag). For food, try the brunches (NT$80-125), afternoon tea, six-inch pizzas (NT$90), pasta dishes, sandwiches and desserts.

Mighty Cafe

470, HuaMei St.
(04) 2326-9179
open 11 am-9:30 pm, closed Mon.

Step inside and you'll quickly realize the main theme here. Collectible action figures, from Batman to Bruce Lee, decorate the minimalist-looking black-and-white upstairs and downstairs areas. The selection of coffees, teas, light meals, business lunches (NT$168) and pasta entrees includes the pictured Mighty Black Coffee (NT$80) and tasty, slightly-peppery "Volcano" Shrimp Pasta (NT$280).

Frog 1 Restaurant

105, HuaMei W St.
(04) 2321-1197
open 11 am-12 midnight

One of Taichung's oldest eating/drinking spots, Frog offers a wide-ranging, reasonably-priced menu that includes Tex-Mex fare like fajitas, enchiladas, quesadillas and the pictured NT$250 Beef Burrito, plus pasta, pizzas and various grilled dishes, from Greek Chicken (NT$250) to German pork steaks and sausages. There and plenty of alcoholic and other beverages and you can also enjoy the foosball table, darts and second-hand books.

Cappriccio Bistro

63, MingYi St.
(04) 2326-8197
open 3 pm-12 midnight, closed Mon

Chef Kitty and bartender Sheila run this cozy, mellowed-out Italian restaurant, serving at least 15 tasty pasta varieties (pictured: NT$300 Tortellini Stuffed with Ricotta Cheese and Beef with Pink Sauce), plus pizzas and risotto. Food is available until late and customers enjoy the open-air wooden deck where tables offer good canal views. Beers, wines and 60-plus cocktails are among drink options.

Kagura

80, HuaMei W St.
(04) 2329-1010
open 6 pm-2 am, closed Wed.

This classic, very Japanese-feeling "sake house" restaurant is a friendly hang-out where customers can enjoy various Japanese grilled items (NT$60-100/stick), entrees like Japanese Fried Chicken (NT$240), Japanese-style fried egg, pork, cheese, veggie cake (NT$180), sashimi, and spicy Miso-Broth Hot Pot (NT$350). Customers sit at tables or the long bar, lined with regulars' personal bottles of sake (NT$1,200-1,500). Beside hard-to-find sakes, there are beers and cocktails, too.

Traveler Kitchen

412-1, HuaMei St.
(04) 2326-6469
open 11:30 am-10 pm, opens 11 am weekends/holidays

This tall, narrow restaurant's striking German-style architecture, quaint warm Bavarian-inspired interior and costumed waiters make it obvious what's served, with fare ranging from the NT$850 (for 2) Meat Combo--German Pig's Knuckle, grilled chicken breast, roasted lamb chops and chicken wings, to the thick, fried Vienna Cheese Pork Steak (NT$360).

Send Smile Coffee

412, HuaMei St.
(04) 2327-5135
open 8:30 am-9 pm

This relaxing European-style cafe offers a nice rows of open-air tables for pleasant days and evenings. Some creative food items include 8:30 a.m.-1 p.m. breakfast options like the Spanish Farmer Breakfast (NT$238) or Seafood Grits Porridge, plus unique burgers, sandwiches, salads and sides like the Banana & Nuts Yogurt with Caramel (NT$80), pictured with an iced "Lazy Daze" German flower tea (NT$160).

Burger Joint 7 'Fen' So

410, HuaMei St.
(04) 2326-7339
open 9:30 am-2 pm, 5:30-9 pm,all-day Sat/Sun

This extremely popular shrine to American comfort food serves various, filling all-day breakfast/brunch combos, from the American Pancake Breakfast (NT$200) to Omelets (NT$170-360), plus various burgers, Philly Cheese Steak Subs (NT$240), steaks and wonderfully thick, classic American-style milkshakes.

Sushi Suzuki

392, HuaMei St.
(04)2320-2155
open 12-2 pm, 6-10 pm, closed Mon.

This beautiful, exclusive-feeling Japanese fine dining spot is almost hidden behind a bamboo curtain and Japanese rock garden and only seats about a dozen diners behind a bar, where the Japanese chef prepares lunch (NT$1,000-3,500) and dinner (NT$1,300-3,500) sets.

Mucha Salon du Chocolat

386, HuaMei St.
(04) 2310-9102;
open 12-10 pm, Sun. 12-8 pm

Veteran chocolatier Mr. Guo's amazing handmade creations (NT$60/piece)--all using high-grade French and Belgian chocolate--are sold here for take-home or enjoyment on the premises. This ranges from various individual chocolates to 10-plus chocolate drinks (NT$120-170).

3 Mins American Diner

27, Lane 419, ZhongMei St.
(04) 2329-5551
open 9 am-9:30 pm

This Marvel Comics themed American-style eatery offers many brunch options (9 a.m. -3 p.m.), including nine omelets, seven kinds of Eggs Benedict (NT$240-260) and nine breakfast-style combos, from a Swedish Style Breakfast (with beef meatballs) to a Spanish Style Breakfast (NT$220). There are also 20 beef/chicken burger choices, milkshakes and other food/drinks.

Hot Dogs

384, HuaMei St.
(04) 2328-7072
open 5 pm-12 midnight

As its name makes clear, this youthful-feeling hang-out focuses on its 13 different hot dog choices (NT$90-150), ranging from the pictured Hawaiian Dog (topped with pineapple, bacon and cheese) to the Chili Dog, all made with quality sausages. Other snacks and beers (500cc draft NT$120) are also available.

The Oasis Sports Lounge

382, HuaMei St.
(04) 2328-5161
open 2 pm-2 am, closed Mon.

This cozy Canal District bar/restaurant, labeling itself as a "sports lounge", is a Taiwanese-Canadian partnership and offers a decent selection of appetizers, snacks, desserts (like a great NT$80 New York Cheesecake) and main entrees, available until closing time. Drinks include Stella Artois on tap (500cc NT$250), NT$120 bottled beers, cocktails, shots and other spirits.

Jme Modern Tea House

380, HuaMei St.
(04) 2328-5537
open 11 am-9 pm, closed Thu.

It's hard to beat the prices for the satisfying, mostly-Western meals, snacks and desserts here, from hot sandwiches to salads and dessert waffles. Weekday lunch sets (11 a.m.-2 p.m.) include the Grilled Rosemary Pork Chops (NT$188), pictured with a very good Mulberry Ice Cream Soda (NT$60).

Za'kafe

378, HuaMei St.
(04) 0980-260-461
open 12-10 pm

This very cute-looking little shop and cafe sells all kinds of equally-cute clothing, purses, teddy bears, coffee/tea cups and other items the female owners have brought back from Japan. Iced/hot herbal, milk and Japanese-style teas (NT$45-120), plus coffees are also available.

'Mom Anxi's' Home-Style Restaurant

376, HuaMei St.
(04) 2320-5536
open 5-10:30 pm, closed Sun.

Artist Hideki Moriyama, whose paintings are displayed on the first floor here, has run this Japanese home-style restaurant with his Taiwanese wife for 16 years. Menu favorites at the relaxing, upstairs dining area include the pictured savory Pork Burger Steak (NT$180, add NT$80 for rice and miso soup).

Mr. Maishine

374, HuaMei St.
(04) 2328-6765
open 5:30 pm-2:30 am Mon-Thu, 5:30 pm-3:30 am Fri-Sun

This late-night watering hole makes its own three styles of reasonably-priced German-style craft beer (NT$100-180, 500 cc), and has a sizable menu of beer-complementing food, from German Pig's Knuckle (NT$599) and 3 Cups Chicken (NT$250) to hot pots. The party-style atmosphere is helped along by darts and table games.

Romanor Coffee

74, HuaMei W St.
(04) 2326-4091
open 8 am-8 pm

Relaxing music, wicker chairs, a coffee bar and outside seats make this a very relaxing, cosmopolitan-feeling cafe. Owner Liu Tao-ming roasts his own beans on the premises and the wide variety of available coffees (and beans) from from Nicaragua Paloma and Tanzania AA to Hawaii Kona Extra Fancy (NT$130), pictured with a Cranberry Pound Cake (NT$60). Various breakfasts (NT$130-145) are offered 8-11 a.m.

Shui Yueh Japanese Cuisine

58, HuaMei W St.
(04) 2319-3343
open 12-2 pm, 6-9:30 pm, closed Mon.

There is no menu at this traditional Japanese restaurant, where customers enjoy multi-course set meals (NT$650-1,500) based on seasonal ingredients and the chefs' selections for the day.

Kitchen Bulldog

57, HuaMei W St.
(04) 2326-8760
open11 am-3:30 pm, 5:30-10:30 pm, closed Tue.

Bulldogs and Vespa scooters dominate the decor at this popular Japanese family-style restaurant, serving savory, filling entrees like the Bulldog Hamburger Steak (NT$250), Japanese Pork Cutlet Rice (NT$180), Japanese Ramen (NT$120), Bulldog Burger (topped with bacon, 2 cheese slices and red-wine beef sauce) and various curry rice choices.