Cool(ing) adventures for July

Compiled by Courtney Donovan Smith
Translated by Angela Cheng

With the rainy season hopefully over in July, it's time to stretch those legs and get out and have some fun! With that in mind, we've compiled a list of somewhat different adventures in places that will keep you cool in Taiwan's blistering summer.

Head to the hills to cool off
Since the city and the county merged, Taichung added a huge amount of scenic natural beauty and a plethora of exciting destinations in a city that now stretches all the way to Hualien county in the east of the country. Simply head east from Dakeng and you'll find an almost endless supply of verdant, lush mountain scenery. Only slightly further afield is Nantou, which includes the famous Sun Moon Lake, which with new highways is quickly accessible from Taichung. Here are some specific ideas to cool off in the hills.

Check out a buried giant and a bird's nest fern forest by Big Snow Mountain

At the base of Daxueshan (Big Snow Mountain) where the Daxueshan RIver meets the Da-an River is the abandoned Snow Mountain Farm, which was forced to close after the 9-21 Earthquake. All that is left is a dramatic statue of half-buried giant that looks like it is drowning in the earth. A bit further along is an also-dramatic bird's nest fern forest. To get there take Highway 3 to Dongshi, turn left at Dongchi Street and you'll arrive at Snow Mountain Farm.

To go to the bird's nest fern forest, take Village Road No. 47, drive over Xueshankeng Bridge, turn onto the macadam road next to Yongfeng Deli, and drive another 3-4 km. You will see an abandoned shed; pass this building and drive another 1.5 km. Take the asphalt road on your left and drive until it ends in front of a farmhouse. Walk about three minutes and you will see the path.

Or try bird-watching on Big Snow Mountain

Heping district's Daxueshan (Big Snow Mountain) National Forest Recreation Area boasts the island's greatest abundance of bird species and is its most important medium-high-elevation wild bird habitat. Aside from being a highly scenic area, it attracts avid birders locally and from overseas to view and photograph birds such as the very rare Mikado Pheasant, Taiwan Blue Pheasant, Taiwan Hill Partridge, Yellow Tit, Vinaceous Rosefinch, and Taiwan's smallest owl--the Collared Owlet, which is no longer than 16 centimeters. To get there, take Highway 3 and transfer to Highway 8 south of Dongshi. Price to enter the park is NT$150 during the week, and on weekends and holidays adults are NT$200. For more information on bird watching: Wild Bird Association of Taiwan, (04) 2260-0518.

Eat freshwater fish and enjoy hot springs in the cool air

Also taking Highway 3 to Highway 8 up into the mountains will bring you to one of the most popular options, Guguan. Hiking and sightseeing is a fun activity during the day, but most notably the little town is chock-a-block with hot springs options, with most places charging NT$100 to NT$250 on weekdays, with children generally charged on the lower end of that scale and adults on the higher end. On weekends the price jumps on average NT$100 more than the weekday price. Private hot springs pools are usually NT$800 to NT$1500 for two hours, and it is recommended to book these in advance. There are also many restaurants serving local delicacies, with the locally raised trout paired with indigenous wild vegetables being the 'must-try' for dining. The trout can only be bred in natural, oxidized water－in other words, a pollution-free environment. For more information contact the Guguan Tourist Service Center at (04) 2595-1496, visit 102, DongGuan Rd., Sec. 1, Guguan, 8:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m., or search on www.taiwanfun.com for more options.

Go camping in the clouds

A fun way to cool off in the summer heat is to go camping, and the Wuling National Forest Recreation Area (武陵國家森林遊樂區), the lowest point of which is 1,740 meters above sea level rising to 3884 meters, is an excellent option. At this height the area is frequently shrouded in mist, but reveals amazing vistas when above the cloud layer. The campground is comfortably equipped, which each camp spot on a raised wooden platform, which is great if it rains. The platform even comes with a power outlet! Campers are charged from NT$700 and up. Admission to the park is NT$80 for children and for adults on weekdays, and NT$160 on weekends. Aside from the to-be-expected stunning mountain scenery, this park hosts Taiwan's most famous indigenous fish--the Formosan Landlocked Salmon. For more information visit http://recreation.forest.gov.tw (the English version of the Wuling page is seriously lacking in information, however). To get there take highway three south into Nantou, transfer to Rt. 14 and then to the Highway 14 'jia' (甲, or spur)--which brings you back into Taichung.

Experience aboriginal culture

Also along Highway 14 are many aboriginal sites, both touristy and not. To check out the non-touristy villages, Renai township in Nantou hosts plenty of such villages. For a more serious look at history, visit the memorial to Chieftain Mona Rudao of the Mahebo Community (馬赫坡部落) in Wushe. The chieftain led the attack on a Japanese school in Wushe in 1930, which led to a protracted war with the Japanese. The Japanese finally had to resort to poison gas and bombing to subdue the small Seediq tribe, a story dramatized in the movie "Warriors of the Rainbow: Seediq Bale". The entrance is marked by an elegant white gateway. A bit further up the road is the Old Mahebo Battlefield (馬赫坡古戰場). Though not actually on the historical site, it is still worth a visit for its tranquil scenery and Seediq-run hot springs campgrounds. Stay on Highway 14 and you will also pass through the Seediq village of Chunyang (春陽村), which is blessed with natural hot springs and mountain scenery. While in this village, make sure to visit the workshop of Mama Chang (張媽媽), also known by her Seediq name, Bagan-Narwee. Mama Chang has developed her weaving skills over the course of 70 years. She is considered a national treasure, not just for the quality of her woven works, but also for her knowledge of the tribe's traditional songs and her skill at playing the mouth harp, a traditional musical instrument. She can also speak some English. For more information: Renai Township Administrative Office 29, RenHe Rd., Renai Township, Nantou County, Tel: (049) 280-2534.

Hiking off the beaten path, but near to downtown

Everyone knows the Dakeng hiking trails, which are attractive and not too far out of downtown. Most don't know, however, about another stunning set of trails that are also not too far from downtown in nearby Wufeng and aren't overwhelmed with visitors. These are the Wufeng Qing Tong Lin Hiking Trails, which comprise the Beikeng Creek branch trail at 800 meters long, the Tong Lin Hua Lang Hiking Trail at 1.6 kilometers long, the Ao Shan Hiking Trail at 255 meters long and the Camphor Tree Forest Hiking Trail at 1.5 kilometers long. These trails are quiet and not as easy to find because its remote mountain location, which contributes to their tranquility. In summer there are some great spots to catch fireflies in the evening. To get there, take Highway 3 toward Wufeng, turn left onto JiFeng Road (next to a police station), turn left onto MinSheng Road, pass by Tong-Lin Public Elementary School, turn left in front of Beikeng Bridge No. 2 and follow the direction signs toward Ling Yin Temple. Pass by Ling Yin Temple, keep going for 3-4 kilometers, and you will reach Beikeng Industrial Road. The first pavilion you will see is Wu Rao Pavilion; you can park there and walk up about 250 meters to the entrance of Tong Lin Hua Lang Hiking Trail. Or you can keep driving to the Chan Ye Second Bridge parking lot, where you will see the entrance of Beikeng Creek branch line hiking trail.