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Great
pastas and pizzas keep coming at Papa Mia
-- By Douglas Habecker
Translated by Jean Huang
Like all of Papa Mia's pastas, Pesto
with Seafood (NT$260) on handmade egg fettucine is a
generous, nicely-presented dish.
The fact that Papa Mia has been around
for almost a dozen years should alone be testament to
its long-standing popularity. However, it's hard to
beat the rave reviews of individuals like my brother-in-law,
a veteran investment banker who has traveled and dined
in every corner of the world and doesn't give praise
easily. To this day, he swears that Papa Mia's thin-crust
pizza is the best he's had anywhere on the planet.
While he loves the pizza, I gravitate
toward the many pasta varieties available here, like
an all-time favorite, the Shrimp & Veggies Spicy
Tomato Sauce (NT$300) or the tasty Pesto with Seafood
(NT$260). With these and the many other red-sauce, white-sauce
and sauteed pasta toppings there is a choice from seven
pastas, including hand-made egg or spinach fettucine.
According to Chef/Owner Ada Yen, a big summer hit is
the cold pasta dishes, such as Chicken Pesto and Assorted
Seafood in Tomato Sauce. Another good new addition is
the Sauteed Pancetta & Pumpkin sauce (NT$270).
During my most recent dine-in, I quickly
devoured a Smoked Salmon & Orange Salad (NT$250);
if you've never savored a delightful fusion of juicy,
sweet orange slices with salmon before, try this one.
Among other non-pasta selections is a popular Caesar
Salad; the new Grilled Chicken & Potato Salad (NT$250);
steaks, fish, lamb and chicken main entrees; desserts;
and, of course, the outstanding, above-mentioned 10-inch
pizzas--with 11 varieties (NT$220-280).
To accompany your meals, there are NT$100
beers, various Italian-style coffees, soft drinks, San
Pellegrino sparkling mineral waters and sparkling juices
(NT$60), and a good wine list. This includes some good
Italian reds and whites, from NT$750 Chiantis to a NT$1,600
1999 Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Reserva.
I've always loved the cozy, warm ambiance of this modest,
45-seat restaurant, complete with a busy open kitchen
and jazz music. Ada, who got into the business because
she loves everything Italian--food, art, architecture,
scenery--makes pilgrimages to the Old Country for inspiration
and new ideas. She says that the secret to success has
been a careful commitment to quality authentic ingredients,
and a willingness to alter flavors slightly for local
palates (like reducing saltiness) without going too
far, in order to maintain essence of great Italian cooking.
Between Ada's love of Italy and diners'
love of her cooking, there's little reason that Papa
Mia won't be around for a long, long time to come. That's
great news for me, my brother-in-law and many other
fans.
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