NIGHTLIFE ALONG TAICHUNG’S CANAL DISTRICT

From our archives, Compass Magazine, MARCH 2000.

Night after the night, they can be seen walking in one direction or another, up and down Taichung Harbor Road. Foreigners, Chinese, residents and visitors, all strolling among the swanky hotels, garish neon signs, department stores, shops, restaurants and pubs of the city’s busiest stretch of commercial activity, Taichung’s emerging version of Hong Kong’s well-known “Golden Mile.”

Although Taichung Harbor Road is still a long ways from the former British colony’s Nathan Road tourist district, the road has become the undisputed hub of the city’s “new” downtown (the old downtown centering on the train station and Chungcheng Rd.) over the past five to 10 years. An international variety of fine restaurants, most of the city’s main hotels and biggest department stores, plus interesting clusters of pubs, cafes, teahouses and other shops have all made Taichung Harbor Road the place to go for some action.

While detailed coverage of the entire district is beyond the scope of one story, a good place to start is the two-square block area adjacent to the major intersection of Taichung Harbor and Chung Ming roads. Many foreigners in particular find that the landmarks of Swensen’s and Ruth’s Chris Steak House restaurants at the crossroads make for good reference points when scouting the area.

Just on the other side of this intersection, heading downtown, is the Hua Mei Street canal, lined with some popular night-time hang-outs. A little further down Taichung Harbor Road is the Chienhsing/Meitsun Road intersection where the monolithic, brightly-lit Sogo Department Store stares across at its new high-rise competitor, Daimaru, topped by the Grand Formosa Hotel.

This relatively-small area alone is good for a night or two of exploring and offers plenty of choices for dining, drinking and shopping. Check out the following establishments (for addresses/telephone numbers, refer to the COMPASS listings):

• Heading downtown on Taichung Harbor Rd., turn right on the Hua Mei St. canal and you’ll encounter a string of popular pub/restaurants.

Frog I
First on the right side of the canal is Frog I pub and restaurant, which has been in business for longer than almost any other place in the city. With a bar and plenty of seating, the Frog is popular with those looking for something to drink. A variety of snacks and Chinese and Mexican dishes are available if you get hungry.

Napoli Italian Restaurant
About 100 meters further down the canal, on the left side is the unmistakable chalet-like building housing Napoli. For years one of Taichung’s favorites for hanging out in the evening, this friendly place offers food and plenty of drinking in a spacious, pub-like atmosphere. On typically-busy weekend nights, the place is crowded with expatriate and Chinese residents, enjoying live performances, djs and drinks at the large bar, tables and outdoor terrace. For dining, pizza, pastas and other Italian fare is available for reasonable prices.

Bhoom Party House
Two doors down from Napoli is Bhoom, touted as one of Taiwan’s first openly-gay clubs with a clientele that is a well-balanced mixture of gay and straight. A variety of performances, musical and otherwise, are held regularly in the modern-looking decor the establishment, which offers dancing and drinking. Note: Bhoom has moved to a new location upstairs from Frog I.

M&M News Cafe
Continue about 50 meters further down the canal and, just around the corner, you’ll come to M&M, offering a east-meets-west combination of dining. Thanks to the multinational backgrounds of its owners (Felix, Marta and Michelle), the restaurant and pub offers dishes from Germany, Indonesia and Taiwan, from gado gado to hackbraten. There are also European satellite TV broadcasts in various languages and a downstairs game room with pool table, fooze ball and pinball.

Circle Bar
Another 50 meters and you’ll come to Circle Bar, which boasts an attractive recently-remodeled bar and friendly, quiet atmosphere. One of the best things about Circle Bar is the fact that owner Peggy keeps the place open, serving drinks and simple but good American food, until VERY late. This makes Circle Bar a good end-of-the-night stop for hungry/thirsty night-crawlers looking for somewhere to go at 3 a.m.

P.J.’s Cafe
Near the canal, on the corner directly behind Sogo Department Store, is another favorite hang-out, owned by Philly-native-turned-Californian P.J. His new second-floor location, with plenty of bar space and a good view, is accessed via the first-floor Su Bau Cafe, which also provides a variety of great food. P.J.’s own specialties include Philly cheese steaks, various Tex-Mex favorites, burgers and regular drink specials — Tequila Sunrise Wednesdays, Pina Colada Thursdays and Magaritaville Fridays.

• Around the intersection of Taichung Harbor and Chung Ming roads are a few more good options for a meal or coffee:

IS Cafe
If you’re feeling like a caffeine boost after some night-hopping, head back to the Chungming Road intersection, where you’ll find the warm, spacious IS Cafe, opposite Swensen’s restaurant. IS is part of a popular local cafe chain and features good hot and cold coffees, all priced under NT$100. Gelato (Italian ice cream) and a few simple meals are also served. Open to midnight.

Swensen’s
If it’s a good US-style burger, ice cream sundae or breakfast you’re looking for, Swensen’s might be a good option. Located opposite IS Cafe and Ruth’s Chris on the Chung Ming Rd. intersection. Medium-range prices and a family-style atmosphere.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House
From its 26th-floor location, Ruth’s Chris provides the best view in the city, not to mention the finest USDA Prime steaks. This well-known American chain restaurant provides only the best of everything — steaks, wines, desserts, cigars — for true connoisseurs. High-end prices.

• On the opposite side of Taichung Harbor Rd. from Sogo are a couple more excellent dining/snacking choices:

Salt & Pepper Restaurant
Heading downtown on Harbor Rd., turn left on the alley which separates Sogo from the Warner Bros. store. A block down, you’ll come to the beautiful Salt & Pepper, featuring some of the nicest ambiance to be found in a Taichung restaurant. Salt & Pepper is operated by Kiwi Michael Beechey, providing a relaxing atmosphere and unique East-meets-West fusion cuisine, perfect for formal and informal meals. Medium-range prices.

Frog Jr. Bagels
Thanks to its large lighted sign, it’s hard to miss Frog Jr. Bagels (a younger brother of Frog I pub) on the corner of Chienhsing and Taichung Harbor roads. This little outlet provides fresh-made bagels, sandwiches and drinks. There’s take-out and a small sitting area upstairs.

The Spice Shop Indian Restaurant
Turn left on Chienhsing Road, and you’ll find Taichung’s first Indian restaurant, opposite the Grand Formosa Hotel entrance. This small pleasant eatery features all the favorites, from chicken tikka to palak paneer, in a relaxing atmosphere. Medium-range prices.

*ALSO, don’t forget that there are plenty of other options for dining to be found at a wide range of fine restaurants inside the Grand Formosa Hotel (such as the outstanding 12th-floor Romana Restaurant Italiano’s lunch and dinner buffets). For the budget-minded, there are dozens of choices in the food courts of both Sogo and Daimaru department stores, which are open to 10 p.m.