何道明 Douglas Habecker
From our archives, Compass Magazine, Jul. 2001
Douglas Habecker
Once upon a time, not very long ago, there was no Taichung Kang Road commercial district, no redevelopment zones, no thriving Peitun, Nantun or Hsitun districts and certainly no ‘commercial circles’ around Chung Yo, Sogo or Mitsukoshi department stores, which did not exist. Taichung and all of its commercial activities revolved around one place and one place only—Central District, with its crowded, bustling avenues and sideroads, department stores and hundreds of small shops and restaurants.
During the past 15 years, that situation has completely changed. More recently, Central District residents and businesses have joined city officials in bemoaning the fact that what once was the beating heart of Taichung is now a shell of its former self, with businesses big and small joining customers in a flight to other newer corners of the city. That fact has been recently highlighted by the closure of landmarks like Far Eastern Department Store.
Despite the seemingly-gloomy outlook, however, Central District may be headed for a renaissance of sorts as residents and city officials have joined hands to beautify and revive the area. Over the past year, the Taichung (Chungshan) Park, Luchuan Canal and Electronics Street have all received attractive face-lifts and work is underway to convert Chikuang Street into a pedestrian-only shopping area, similar in some ways to the very popular Chingming 1st Street.
Just as important, Central District has always been one of the most fascinating places of the city to visit and stroll through by foot. Convenient parking facilities on its periphery, the compact nature of the district and already-crowded streets make walking the best option for seeing the sights, exploring the back alleys and sampling the exotic spectrum of flavors offered by a multitude of shops, eateries and other attractions. For anyone—visitor or resident—who has not taken the time to explore the older, traditional side of downtown Taichung, Central District is an absolute must-see.
The following Central District walking tour (see map) is good for two to five hours of enjoyment, depending on one’s speed and number of stops. This is just a suggested get-acquainted route, as this area offers much more that can be exploring in depth to one’s pleasure. As the oldest and best-known landmark in the city, Taichung Park, with its well-known lakeside pavilions, is probably the best place to start a tour. Completed in 1903 during the Japanese colonial era, the park has seen its most extensive renovation in decades in the past year, thanks to the efforts of the current city government administration. Already completed or nearing completion are wider, newly-paved and more open sidewalks and pathways, bright playground areas, a new row-boating rental dock and other facilities. Overall, the park is also cleaner and better landscaped.
After a stroll through the park, taking in the greenery and clusters of senior citizen regulars who hang out there, head across Kungyuan Road to the Hoover Movie Theater. The city block that contains this large theater complex—between Kungyuan, Kuangfu, Shihfu and Pingteng roads–also contains a maze of dark inner alleys with old shops and residences, leaking air conditioners and the debris of several decades, all creating a scene straight out of the movie ‘Bladerunner’. However, the whole block comes to life every Saturday morning when it fills up with dozens of stalls and crowds of customers for the Saturday Jade Market, an exotic enjoyable experience. On the back side of the block, at the intersection of Kuangfu and Shihfu roads, the 369 Snack Bar (145, Shihfu Rd.) is one of the area’s oldest and most popular eateries, serving great beef noodles, dumplings and other traditional treats for lunch and dinner.
On any evening, heading back north Kungyuan Road and across Sanmin Road will take you into the Chunghua Night Market. The oldest, largest and best-known of Taichung’s night markets, this fascinating area—with dozens of stalls selling everything from seafood to electronics—stretches a few blocks up to Chunghua Road and stays open until at least 1 or 2 a.m.
Get back on Kungyuan Road and head past the Humanitics Style Café and Park Hotel to Tzuyu Road. Turning right at the McDonald’s (the city’s longest-standing one), stroll along Tzuyu Road past the old double-feature Park Theater, which appears to be under renovation. Further on down is the popular, large and glitzy-looking Cash Box KTV, housed in what used to an ATT Department Store. A KFC outlet stands at the corner of Chengkung Road where one can turn right, head about a block and enjoy an excellent steak and classy atmosphere at Y.Y.’s Steak House (196, Chengkung Rd.), run by veteran Taipei restaurateur Y.Y., a wonderful raconteur who loves to reminisce with foreign friends about the good old days.
Back on Tzuyu Road, you will pass the indented entrance to the 1+1 Movie Theater, opposite the now-closed Far Eastern Department Store, before coming to another landmark, Mystore Bakery (94, Chung Cheng Rd.). In business since 1945, Mystore makes good bread and pastries but is just as famous for the fact that it reputedly sits on the most valuable real estate in the entire city. Cater-corner to Mystore is the vintage-looking Chang Hwa Commercial Bank building which looks about the same as in photos taken around World War II. At this intersection, turn left onto Chung Cheng Road, heading in the direction of the train station.
The streets in this area are full of interesting little shops which seem to focus on several main themes—jewelry, watches, shoes, clothing and bread. Heading down Chung Cheng Road on the right side, you will come to what is certainly one of the oldest and best-known restaurants in the area, Ching Yuan Chun, which has been in business for 53 years and specializes in Zhejiang cuisine, serving great meat-filled buns, soups, noodles, seafood, snacks and main courses like ‘drunken’ chicken. The clean, pleasant interior truly looks like classic eateries that one can still see in China but rarely any more in Taiwan. Incongruously, this place is wedged between two more recent neighbors, a Toronto Café and NET clothing store. Impossible to miss on the other side of the road is the Eslite Lungshing store complex, a department store-like building which, among many other things, contains a large eighth-floor Eslite book store and a second-floor Café Piazza, a sizeable, attractive café that serves snacks, meals and European-style coffees.
At the right-side KFC, turn right onto Chikuang Street which is undergoing its pedestrian-only makeover. In quick progression on the left-hand side is a US GNC vitamins and health supplements store, the Shiy Mei Zai Watch Store and a Watson’s personal products store. Shiy Mei Zai is another vintage establishment, having been in business since 1925, and is a reputable city dealer for high-end watch brands like Rolex, Bulgari, Baume & Mercier, Longines and Piaget. Continue on Chikuang Street through the next intersection with Chungshan Road and walk down to a truly unique-looking establishment, Firefly Colony (68, Chikuang St.; open 10:30-12:30 a.m.). Around since 1994, Firefly is a large teahouse/restaurant housed in a very large old wooden building. Inside, wooden tables and seats are situated in all kinds of nooks and crannies, including a large traditional boat and balcony areas upstairs, closer to the high ceiling rafters. The place is liberally decorated with old signs and mementos and is dimly-lit, giving off a cozy, nostalgic feeling. A laminated English menu is available and includes meals like curry chicken and rice, beef oyster sauce and rice, and Taiwanese noodles, all for reasonable prices. There are also iced and hot tea drinks and Chinese and Western snacks.
Just a little further up Chikuang Street, you will see one of the entrances to the Electronics Street shopping area on the left. Turning in there will take you into a one-block, pedestrian-only area—recently beautified—containing over 60 shops selling all sorts of computer-related hardware, software, parts, games, electronics and audio-visual equipment. This shopping area became famous for its stereo component stores from 1976 on and, a decade later, metamorphosed into a computer center. Through July 31, a series of special promotional events (see ‘What’s On’ section) are taking place on the street, including musical performances and raffle prize giveaways.
Following the alley from the Chikuang Street entrance straight through the block takes you to Luchuan West Street, bordering the Luchuan Canal. Turn left and stroll along either side of the canal, which is now a pleasant experience, thanks to new walkways, bridges, landscaping and decorative touches, including dozens of tile markers with black-and-white photo images of the area many decades ago. This entire area, between the canal and vintage European-style train station, is overflowing with sounds and smells—from a dozen types of local cooking to Western perfumes—coming from all manner of small establishments. It is also a major haven for English cram schools, Internet cafes and video-game arcades, as well as the city’s main hub for local and inter-city bus transportation.
Walking along the canal and continuing across Chung Cheng Road will bring you to the main entrance plaza to another large shopping and entertainment complex, First Square. Built over a decade ago over the site of the city’s traditional First Market, this slightly seedy-looking building has become a major city hang-out for the young and restless, who can choose from numerous resident KTVs, MTVs, pool halls, video game arcades, eateries and hundreds of small shops, selling clothing, electronics and enough fashion accessories to keep any teeny-bopper happy. The building is also home to the First Square cinema complex.
With that, your walking tour is just about over. For an exotic side-trip to the traditional Chienkuo Market, head up Chung Cheng Road, turn left at the train station and continue about a block on Shuangshih Road to the crowded market area, which is particularly picturesque in the early mornings. Adjacent alleys are full of machinery and tool vendors—a handyman’s heaven. Just to the left of the train station terminal, a pedestrian underpass also leads to 20th Warehouse Art Gallery, a series of old railroad warehouses just across the tracks which have been converted into a nice gallery, hosting regular exhibits, and artist studios.
Perhaps the best way to unwind after a long walk and contemplate one’s experiences is to head to Central District’s most dominant structure, opposite the train station. This white skyscraper now houses the eTower computer/electronics mall on floors one and two and what remains of Golden Plaza Department Store on the floors above. For the arguably best view in the entire city, head up the building’s needle-like tower to the UFO Revolving Restaurant (22F, 105, Chienkuo Rd.; open 11:30 a.m.-12 midnight, open to 1 a.m. Fri./Sat.). Day or night, one can take in the entire city in the 105 minutes that a complete 360-degree revolution takes, while enjoying a good Western meal or drink and upscale ambiance.
Remember that this tour is just basic exploration of Central District. In any direction, further interesting discoveries and experiences await anyone wanting to venture further into the still-beating heart of old Taichung.
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