From our archives, Compass Magazine, Apr. 2002:
By Uvia Chang Translated by Cheryl Robbins

Pao Shu Restaurant has specialized in charbroiled dishes for the past 32 years, ever since it opened its doors in 1970.
In many barbecue restaurants, there is often some smoke, because of poor ventilation, which greatly detracts from the meal and leaves a lingering odor on your clothes. However, Pao Shu has outstanding ventilation equipment, so there are no distractions from enjoying the delicious food. The atmosphere is simple, but elegant, and includes rustic-looking tables and chairs made from camphor wood. Wood carvings complement the green walls and add to the rustic feel.

In Taiwan, when most people think of barbecue, they think of a restaurant where you place the meat on the grill yourself and cook it. However, Pao Shu is unique because each dish is fully cooked in the kitchen before being brought to the table. Restaurant owner and Taichung Food and Beverage Association President Hsieh Hui-lien says, “Charbroiling requires the proper techniques. For a charbroiled dish to taste good, it cannot just be cooked any which way. If diners are allowed to cook the meat themselves, there is a chance that it will not be cooked all the way through or that it will be burned on the outside but still undercooked on the inside.”
According to Hsieh, charbroiling techniques depend on the type of meat, the time needed to grill the meat and the intensity of the flames. After 30 years of experience, he is confident he can provide diners with the best charbroiled dishes in the city. In addition, all of the sauces are specially made and exclusive to this restaurant.

Just as we were talking, from the kitchen came a large dish of stewed pig’s liver that the owner invited us to try. Many of his regular customers request this dish as takeout (NT$600 for whole liver, NT$350 for half, NT$180 for one-fourth). In addition, we ordered the chicken (NT$480 for a whole), which is slow-roasted for 90 minutes, so that the skin is crispy but the meat remains juicy and tender. And, since it is roasted, this is a dish that even those who are watching their weight can enjoy.
The menu also features imported US sirloin steak (12 oz.) for NT$520. Chicken (NT$35) and pork skewers (NT$40) are also available. Some dishes on the menu were created by the owner himself, including side, stewed and pickled dishes. He even makes his own plum wine (NT$180/glass). Pao Shu also brings in abalone from the U.S. by air freight. The price is NT$2,500 to NT$3,000 (depending on the size of the abalone). Because this delicacy is not always available, be sure to call the restaurant beforehand if interested in trying this dish.

From the numerous medals and certificates hanging on the walls, it is easy to see that Mr. Hsieh is not only devoted to his restaurant but also to volunteer work and helping others. He feels that he is not in business just to earn money from the community, but also to give something back to the community and society as a whole.
There is an old Chinese saying: “If the family lives in harmony, they will prosper.” The owner’s son Hsieh Yu-tsun has inherited his father’s skills and uses them to help run this restaurant. This helps ensure that diners enjoy a warm family atmosphere in addition to delicious food at Pao Shu Restaurant.
Pao Shu Restaurant
119, ShuangShr (ShuangShih) Rd., sec. 1
Tel: (04) 2223-6866
Hours: 11 am-2 pm; 5-9 pm
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